Malaysia does not have the grand, ancient ruins of neighbouring Thailand, but its rich cultural heritage is apparent, both in its traditional kampung (village) areas and in its commitment to religious plurality. The dominant cultural force has undoubtedly been Islam, but the country's diverse population of indigenous Malays, Chinese and Indians has spawned a fabulous juxtaposition of mosques, temples and churches, a panoply of festivals and a wonderful mixture of cuisines. In addition, Malaysia boasts fine beaches, as well as the world's oldest tropical rainforest and some spectacular cave systems.
Your first impressions of Malaysia's hi-tech, fast-growing west-coast capital, Kuala Lumpur (KL), are likely to be of a vibrant and colourful, if crowded, place. Traditionally, people have stayed just long enough to think about their next destination, but there are good reasons to stay a little longer: accommodation is plentiful and cheap, the food is excellent and its streets safe and friendly. Less than three hours' journey south lies the birthplace of Malay civilization, Melaka, a must on anybody's itinerary, while north up the coast is the first British settlement, the island of Penang, and its very appealing capital, Georgetown. For a taste of Old England and lots of walks, head for the hill station of the Cameron Highlands.
North of Penang, the premier tourist destination is Pulau Langkawi, a popular duty-free island. Routes down the Peninsula's east coast are more relaxing, with stops at the sleepy mainland kampung such as Cherating and the stunning islands of Pulau Perhentian and Pulau Tioman. The state capitals of Kota Bharu, near the northeastern Thai border, and Kuala Terengganu, further south, are showcases for the best of Malay crafts and performing arts, while the unsullied tropical rainforests of Taman Negara national park offer trails, animal hides, a high canopy walkway and waterfalls.
Across the sea from the Peninsula are the Bornean states of Sarawak and Sabah. For most travellers, their first taste of Sarawak is Kuching, the old colonial capital, and then the Iban longhouses of the Batang Ai and Batang Lupar river systems, or the Bidayuh communities closer to the Kalimantan border. The best time to visit is in late May to early June when the Iban and the Bidayuh celebrate their harvest festivals with ribald parties to which everyone is invited. Sibu, much further to the north, is another starting point for more visits to other Iban longhouses and the idyllic Pelagus Rapids region. In the north of the state, Gunung Mulu national park is the principal destination, its extraordinary razor-sharp limestone needles providing demanding climbing – its deep, cathedral-shaped caves are awe-inspiring.
The main reason for a trip to Sabah is to conquer the 4101-metre granite peak of Mount Kinabalu, though the lively modern capital Kota Kinabalu and its offshore islands have their moments, too. Beyond this, Sabah is worth a visit for its wildlife, including turtles, orang-utans, proboscis monkeys and hornbills, while oceanic Pulau Sipadan has a host of sharks, fish and turtles, as well as one of the world's top coral reef dives.
Overseas mail takes four to seven days to reach its destination. Packages are expensive to send, with surface/sea mail taking two months to Europe, longer to the USA, and even air mail taking a few weeks. There's usually a shop near the post office which will wrap your parcel for RM5 or so. If you leave your letter or package unsealed, the postage will be cheaper. Each Malaysian town has a General Post Office, with a poste restante/general delivery section, where mail is held for two months. GPOs also forward mail (for one month), free of charge, if you fill in the right form. See "Basics" for advice on poste restante.
There are public telephone boxes in most towns in Malaysia; local calls cost 10 sen for an unlimited amount of time. For long-distance calls, it makes sense to use a card phone, either the ubiquitous Uniphone (yellow), the green Cityphone, or the widespread government Kadfon (blue). Cards of RM5, RM10, RM20 and RM50 are sold at Shell and Petronas stations, newsagents and most 7-Elevens. Note that the Uniphone only takes RM20 or RM50 cards. Check for an international logo on the phone booth before dialling overseas. To call abroad from Malaysia, dial 00 + IDD country code (see "Basics") + area code minus first 0 + subscriber number.
You can also use your BT or AT&T chargecard in Malaysia. Collect (reverse charge) calls can be made from hotels or from a Telekom office (open office hours), though these are found only in larger towns. In KL, Penang and Kota Kinabalu there are also Home Country Direct phones – press the appropriate button and you'll be connected with your home operator, who can either arrange a collect call or debit you. Many businesses in Malaysia have mobile phone numbers; they are prefixed tel 011 or 010 and are expensive to call.
Internet cafés are plentiful and often found in smaller places, as well as major towns. Many small and remote hostels and guesthouses also provide internet access, as do top-of-the-range hotels. Prices are very competitive, ranging between RM3 and RM10 per hour. Connections are usually pretty good.
Crime and safety
If you lose something in Malaysia, you're more likely to have someone running after you with it than running away. Nevertheless, muggings have been known, and theft from dormitories by other tourists is a common complaint. It's a good idea to keep one credit or debit card with you, and another in your room. In the more remote parts of Sarawak or Sabah there is little crime, and you needn't worry unduly about carrying more cash than usual. If you do need to report a crime in Malaysia, head for the nearest police station, where there'll be someone who speaks English – you'll need a copy of the police report for insurance purposes. In many major tourist spots, there are specific tourist police stations. It is very unwise to have anything to do with drugs of any description in Malaysia. The penalties for trafficking drugs in or out of either country are extreme – foreigners have been executed in the past.
Medical care and emergencies
The levels of hygiene and medical care in Malaysia are higher than in much of the rest of Southeast Asia; staff almost everywhere speak good English and use up-to-date techniques. There's always a pharmacy in main towns, which is well stocked with brand-name drugs. They also sell oral contraceptives and condoms over the counter. Pharmacists can help with simple complaints, though if you're in any doubt, get a proper diagnosis. Opening hours are usually Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm; pharmacies in shopping malls stay open later. Private clinics are found even in the smallest towns; a visit costs around RM30, excluding medication. The emergency department of each town's General Hospital will see foreigners for the token fee of RM1, though costs rise rapidly if continued treatment or overnight stays are necessary. See the "Listings" sections at major towns for addresses of pharmacies and hospitals.
Money and costs
Malaysia's unit of currency is the Malaysian ringgit, divided into 100 sen. You'll also see the ringgit written as "RM", or simply as "$" (M$), and often hear it called a "dollar". Notes come in $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1000 denominations; coins are minted in 1 sen, 5 sen, 10 sen, 20 sen, 50 sen and $1 denominations. At the time of writing, the exchange rate was around RM5.30 to £1, with the ringgit fixed against the US dollar at RM3.80. There is no black market.
If entering Malaysia from Thailand, you will find your daily budget remains pretty much unchanged, but approaching from Indonesia, costs will take a step up. In Peninsular Malaysia, if you stay in basic accommodation, use local transport and eat at roadside stalls, you can manage on £10/US$15 a day. With air-conditioned rooms, decent restaurants and the occasional beer, your daily budget becomes a more realistic £20/US$30.
You'll find living costs roughly similar in East Malaysia, though room rates are around thirty percent more expensive. Moreover, transport in Sarawak and Sabah can be expensive, since you may decide to charter your own boat, and adequately exploring some of the major national parks can require paying upfront for guides or tours.
Sterling and US dollar traveller's cheques can be cashed at Malaysian banks, licensed moneychangers and some hotels. Ban Hin Lee Bank (BHL) doesn't charge any commission for changing American Express traveller's cheques, but can only be found in major cities.
Licensed moneychangers' kiosks in bigger towns tend to open until around 6pm, and sometimes at weekends; some hotels will exchange money at all hours. It's not difficult to change money in Sabah or Sarawak, though if travelling by river in the interior, you should carry a fair bit of cash, in smallish denominations.
Major credit cards are accepted in most hotels and large shops, but beware of illegal surcharges. Banks will advance cash against major credit cards, and with American Express, Visa and MasterCard as well as Cirrus, Plus and Maestrobank (debit) cards, you can withdraw money from automatic teller machines (ATMs) in big cities and many towns.
Wiring money to Malaysia is straightforward. In KL, the best banks to use are Bank of America Wisma Goldhill, Jalan Raja Chulan, Golden Triangle (tel 03/202 1133) and the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, 2 Lebuh Ampang, Little India (tel 03/230 0744).
Food and drink
Malaysian cuisine is inspired by the three main communities, Malay, Chinese and Indian. The standard of cooking is extremely high and food everywhere is remarkably good value. Basic noodle- or rice-based meals at a street stall will cost just a few dollars, and a full meal with drinks in a reputable restaurant will seldom cost more than RM40 a head.
The cuisines
Malay cuisine is based on rice, often enriched with santan (coconut milk), which is served with a dazzling variety of curries, vegetable stir-fries and sambals, a condiment of chillies and shrimp paste.
The most famous dish is satay – virtually Malaysia's national dish – which comprises skewers of barbecued meat dipped in spicy peanut sauce. The classic way to sample Malay curries is to eat nasi campur , a buffet (usually served at lunchtime) of steamed rice supplemented by any of up to two dozen accompanying dishes, including lembu (beef), kangkong (greens), fried chicken, fish steaks and curry sauce, and various vegetables. Another popular dish is nasi goreng (mixed fried rice with meat, seafood and vegetables). For breakfast, the most popular Malay dish is nasi lemak, rice cooked in coconut milk and served with sambal ikan bilis (tiny fried anchovies in hot chilli paste).
In Sabah, there's the Murut speciality of jaruk – raw wild boar fermented in a bamboo tube, but the most famous Sabah dish is hinava, or raw fish pickled in lime juice. In Sarawak, you're most likely to eat with the Iban, sampling wild boar with jungle ferns and sticky rice. A particular favourite in Kuching are bamboo clams, small pencil-shaped slivery delicacies which only grow in the wild in mangrove-dense riverine locations. These are called "monkey's penises" by the locals.
Typical Nonya dishes incorporate elements from Chinese, Indonesian and Thai cooking. Chicken, fish and seafood form the backbone of the cuisine, and unlike Malay food, pork is used. Noodles (mee) flavoured with chillies, and rich curries made from rice flour and coconut cream, are common. A popular breakfast dish is laksa, noodles in spicy coconut soup served with seafood and beansprouts, lemon grass, pineapple, pepper, lime leaves and chilli. Other popular Nonya dishes include ayam buah keluak, chicken cooked with Indonesian "black" nuts; and otak-otak, fish mashed with coconut milk and chilli and steamed in a banana leaf.
Chinese food dominates in Malaysia – fish and seafood is nearly always outstanding, with prawns, crab, squid and a variety of fish on offer almost everywhere. Noodles, too, are ubiquitous, and come in wonderful variations – thin, flat, round, served in soup (wet) or fried (dry). Malaysians eat mee any time of the day or night, and a particular favourite is a dish called hokkien mee: fat, white noodles with tempe in a rich soy sauce whipped up in three minutes flat by a wok chef at the side of the road. The dominant style is Cantonese and the classic lunch is dim sum, a variety of steamed and fried dumplings served in bamboo baskets. Standard dishes include chicken in chilli or with cashew nuts; buttered prawns, or prawns served with a sweet and sour sauce; spare ribs; and mixed vegetables with tofu (beancurd) and beansprouts. For something a little more unusual, try a steamboat, a Chinese-style fondue filled with boiling stock in which you cook meat, fish, shellfish, eggs and vegetables; or a claypot – meat, fish or shellfish cooked over a fire in an earthenware pot.
North Indian food tends to rely more on meat, especially mutton and chicken, and breads – naan, chapatis, parathas and rotis – rather than rice. The most famous style of North Indian cooking is tandoori – named after the clay oven in which the food is cooked. A favourite breakfast is roti canai (pancake and daal) or roti kaya (pancake spread with egg and jam). Southern Indian food tends to be spicier and more reliant on vegetables. Its staple is the dosai (pancake), often served at breakfast time as a masala dosai, stuffed with onions, vegetables and chutney. Indian Muslims serve the similar murtabak, a grilled roti pancake with egg and minced meat. Many South Indian cafés serve daun pisang at lunchtime, usually a vegetarian meal where rice is served on banana leaves with vegetable curries. It's normal to eat a banana-leaf meal with your right hand, though restaurants will always have cutlery.
Drinking
Tap water is safe to drink in Malaysia, though it's wise to stick to bottled water (RM2 a litre) in rural areas, and in Sarawak and Sabah. Using ice for drinks is generally fine, too, making the huge variety of seasonal fresh fruit drinks, available in hawker centres and street corners, even more pleasant. You'll often find that sweet condensed milk is added to tea and coffee unless you ask for it without. In city centres look out for the sweetened soy milk and sugar-cane juice touted on street corners.
Only in certain places on the east coast of the Malaysian Peninsula is drinking alcohol outlawed. Elsewhere, despite the Muslim influence, alcohol is available in bars, restaurants, Chinese kedai kopi, supermarkets and sometimes at hawker's stalls. Anchor and Tiger beer (lager) are locally produced and are probably the best choices, although Carlsberg and Heineken are being marketed heavily. Locally produced whisky and rum are cheap enough, too, though pretty rough. The brandy , which is what some local Chinese drink, tends to be better. Wine is becoming more common and competitively priced too. There is a thriving bar scene in KL, Kuching and Penang; less so in other towns. Fierce competition keeps happy hours a regular feature (usually 5–7pm), bringing the beer down to around RM5 a glass. Some bars open all day (11am–11pm), but most tend to double as clubs, opening in the evenings until 2 or 3am. All-night clubs are a relatively new development, and again liberal licensing seems to apply.
Where to eat
To eat inexpensively go to hawker stalls, traditionally simple wooden stalls on the roadside, with a few stools to sit at. They serve standard Malay noodle and rice dishes, satay, Indian fast food such as roti canai, plus more obscure regional delicacies. Most are scrupulously clean, with the food cooked in front of you. Avoid dishes that look as if they've been standing around, or have been reheated, and you should be fine. Hawker stalls don't have menus and you don't have to sit close to the stall you're patronizing: find a free table, and the vendor will track you down when your food is ready. You may find that the meal should be paid for when it reaches your table, but the usual form is to pay at the end. Most outdoor stalls open at around 11am, usually offering the day's nasi campur selection; prices are determined by the number of dishes you choose on top of your rice, usually about RM2–3 per portion. Hawker stalls generally close well before midnight.
Few streets exist without a kedai kopi, a coffee house or café, usually run by Chinese or Indians. Most open at 7am or 8am; closing times vary from 6pm to midnight. Basic Chinese coffee houses serve noodle and rice dishes all day, as well as cakes. The culinary standard might not be very high, but a filling one-plate meal costs a couple of dollars. If available, full meals of meat, seafood and vegetables cost about RM5.
On the whole, proper restaurants are places to savour particular delicacies found nowhere else, like shark's-fin dishes, bird's-nest soup, and high-quality seafood. In many restaurants, the food is not necessarily superior to that served at a good café or hawker stall – you're just paying for air-con and tablecloths. Tipping is not expected and bills arrive complete with service charge and government tax. In the main, restaurants are open from 11.30am to 2.30pm and from 6 to 10.30pm.
Malaysia has land borders with Thailand, Singapore, Brunei and Indonesian Kalimantan. Aside from the options we've detailed, there are regular boats from Bandar in Brunei to Lawas and Limbang in Sarawak and to Pulau Labuan in Sabah. Weekly boats from Zamboanga in the Philippines run to Sandakan in Sabah. We've given an outline of overland and sea routes: full details are given in the accounts of relevant departure points.
From Indonesia
A variety of ferries and speedboats depart from Indonesia to Malaysia. Boats run from Tanjung Balai, in Sumatra, to Port Klang, just outside Kuala Lumpur; from Medan, in north Sumatra, to Penang ; from Dumai, south of Medan, to Melaka; from Pulau Batam, in the Riau archipelago, to Johor Bahru; from Nunukan and Tarakan in northeastern Kalimantan to Tawau in Sabah; and from Tanjung Balai to Kukup, 200km south of Melaka.
There is a land border at Entikong, 100km southwest of Kuching; buses run from Pontianak in southern Kalimantan through here to Kuching. You can also cross from Nanga Badau into Sarawak.
From the Philippines
There are several weekly sailings from Zamboanga, in the southern Philippines, to Sandakan, in Sabah.
From Thailand
Travelling from Thailand to Malaysia is straightforward and a very commonly used route. Most Western tourists can spend thirty days in Malaysia and fourteen days in Singapore without having bought a visa beforehand, and the transport connections between the three countries are excellent. This makes it an ideal route for tourists and expats needing to renew their Thai visas; there are Thai consulates in Kuala Lumpur, Georgetown (Penang) and Kota Bahru.
Most people choose to travel by long-distance train or bus to Malaysian cities such as KL or Butterworth, either from Bangkok, Krabi, Surat Thani or Hat Yai; see individual city accounts and "Travel Details". However, you can also travel by more local transport, as there are a number of border crossings between Thailand and Malaysia – from Satun to Kuala Perlis and Langkawi; Padang Besar to Kuala Perlis and Alor Setar; Betong to Sungei Petani; Sungai Kolok to Kota Bharu; Ban Taba to Kota Bharu, Sadao and Wang Prachan.
Plenty of buses also cross the Thai–Malaysian border every day. The southern Thai town of Hat Yai is the major transport hub for international bus connections to Butterworth (5hr), Penang (6hr), Kuala Lumpur (12hr) and Singapore (18hr).
Information and maps
Tourism Malaysia operates a tourist office in most major towns, but is not that useful for areas off the beaten track. Locally run visitor centres, found in most major towns, are more geared up to independent travellers' needs. You can also book permits and accommodation for the national parks at these centres.
The best general maps of Malaysia are Macmillan's 1:2,000,000 Malaysia Traveller's Map and the more detailed Nelles 1:650,000 West Malaysia (not including Sabah and Sarawak). The best detailed relief map of Sarawak is the Land and Survey Department's 1:500,000 issue, available in the bookshop at the Kuching Holiday Inn; also good is the Periplus 1:1,000,000 Sarawak map – it was updated in 2000, so be sure not to buy the old one. The best coverage of Sabah is on maps produced by Nelles. City maps can usually be picked up in the visitor centres.
Entry requirements and visa extension
Most nationalities do not need a visa for stays of fewer than two months in Malaysia, but passports must be valid for three months beyond your date of departure, and for six months if you're going to Sabah or Sarawak. To extend your visa, go to an immigration department office (eg in KL, Penang or Johor Bahru), or simply cross into Singapore and back. A one-month extension should be no problem, and a three-month extension may be possible.
Tourists travelling from the Peninsula to Sarawak and Sabah must be cleared again by immigration. Visitors to Sabah can remain as long as their original two-month stamp is valid. Visitors to Sarawak – whether from Sabah or the Peninsula – receive a new, one-month stamp which is rarely extendible. If you start your trip in Sarawak and then fly to the mainland, be sure to get your passport stamped by immigration with the usual two-month pass. If an officer isn't available to do this then go to the Immigration Office in Kuching at the first opportunity to get it stamped there.
