Travel in Cambodia: Free online guide

Cambodia was largely out of bounds to tourists until recently, but now areas that were unsafe because of Khmer Rouge guerrillas and bandit groups have been returned to the control of the Cambodian army, and virtually the whole of the country has become accessible. For many travellers, lured by the prospect of little explored and unspoilt regions, Cambodia has become a top destination on Southeast Asia's otherwise well-trodden tourist trail.

The Kingdom of Cambodia, with a population of ten million, occupies a modest wedge of land, almost completely hemmed in by its neighbours, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. Its glory days began in the early ninth century, when the rival Indian-influenced Chenla kingdoms united under King Jayavarman II to form the Khmer Empire, a powerful and visionary dynasty, which, at its peak, stretched from Vietnam in the east to China in the north and Burma in the west.

Recent history has been less kind to the country. French colonization was followed by an extended period of turbulence and instability, culminating in the devastating Kampuchean holocaust instigated by Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge in 1975. The brutal regime lasted four years before invading Vietnamese forces reached the capital in 1979 and overthrew the Khmer Rouge. Pol Pot and his supporters fled to the jungle bordering Thailand, from where they continued to wage war on successive governments in Phnom Penh. Pol Pot's death in 1998 finally signalled the demise of the Khmer Rouge, and their subsequent surrender has given Cambodia a real chance for peace for the first time in thirty years. There are indeed many signs that Cambodia is at last shaking off the shadows of its past and looking to the future with a cautious confidence. International investors are beginning to back business ventures, there is increasing evidence of development and modernization in urban areas and foreign aid is flowing in.

Most visitors to Cambodia head for the stunning Angkor ruins, a collection of over one hundred temples dating back to the ninth century. Once the seat of power of the Khmer Empire, Angkor is royal extravagance on a grand scale, its imposing features enhanced by the dramatic setting of lush jungle greenery and verdant fields. The complex is acknowledged as the most exquisite example of ancient architecture in Southeast Asia, and has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

The flat, sprawling capital of Phnom Penh is also an alluring attraction in its own right. Wide, sweeping boulevards and elegant, if neglected, French colonial-style facades lend the city a romantic appeal. However, there's also stark evidence of great poverty, a reminder that you're visiting one of the world's poorest countries.

Those enterprising travellers who look beyond the standard itinerary of Angkor and Phnom Penh will be rewarded with a rich variety of experiences. Its worth stopping off for a day halfway between Angkor and Phnom Penh, at Kompong Thom, to make a side trip to the pre-Angkor ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk; here you can explore several groups of early brick-built towers with scarcely another tourist in sight.

Miles of unspoilt beaches and remote islands offer sandy seclusion along the southern coastline. Although Sihanoukville is the main port of call, it's easy enough to commandeer transport to nearby hidden coves and offshore islands, with only the odd fisherman or smuggler to interrupt your solitude. Rattanakiri province in the northeastern corner of the country, with its hilltribes and volcanic scenery, is also becoming increasingly popular with visitors. Neighbouring Mondulkiri is less well known, but equally impressive, offering dramatic alpinesque woodlands, villages and mountains. In the central plains, Battambang, Cambodia's second city, is a sleepy provincial capital, and the gateway to the old Khmer Rouge stronghold of Pailin.

Getting around Cambodia is really no problem, although it's often a less than comfortable exercise; the road system still leaves a lot to be desired and travel outside the main tourist routes can be slow and punishing.

Cambodia's monsoon climate creates two distinct seasons. The southwesterly monsoon from May to October brings heavy rain, humidity and strong winds, while the northeasterly monsoon from November to April produces dry, hot weather, with average temperatures rising from 25°C in November to around 32°C in April. The best months to visit are December and January, as it's dry and relatively cool, though Angkor is at its most stunning during the lush rainy season.

Communications

To send anything by mail it's best to use the main post office in Phnom Penh, as all mail from the provinces is consolidated here anyway. A stamp for a letter to Europe or Australia costs 2300r, and for a postcard 1800r. Letters to the US cost 2500r, postcards 2100r. International post is often delivered in around a week, but can take up to a month, depending on the destination. Post offices are open every day from 7am until at least 5pm, sometimes later. Poste restante is also available at the Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville post offices.

Domestic and international calls can be made from guesthouses, hotels, post offices and public phone booths. Phonecards are usually on sale at the shop nearest to the phone booth. Making a phone call in Cambodia, however, is expensive, about double the amount you'd pay in Bangkok, for example. International calls cost from $3 per minute in Phnom Penh, while calls from the provinces are generally more expensive. To phone abroad from Cambodia, dial 001 + IDD country code + area code minus first 0 + subscriber number. For international directory enquiries, call 1201.

The cost of internet access in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap has been sent tumbling by an improved telephone system and an influx of internet cafés. It's now possible to surf for as little as $2 an hour (see "Listings") and it's also worth looking out for special promotions around these two towns. Internet access is available in Sihanoukville and Battambang, although it costs more than three times as much as in Phnom Penh and is unreliable.

Crime and safety

The security situation in Cambodia has improved significantly over the last few years. Areas that were once plagued with bandit activity or by the threat of unpredictable Khmer Rouge factions, are now safe to travel in. In spite of recent crackdowns, there is still a culture of guns in Cambodia, and there have been incidents of armed robbery against locals and tourists alike. All areas covered in this guide are safe to travel to overland, but you should remain alert to the fact that Cambodia, as well as being one of the most mined countries in the world, also has a terrible legacy of UXO. When travelling in the countryside stick to well-trodden paths and don't pick up or kick anything that you can't identify.

Gun crime is actually more frequent in Phnom Penh than anywhere else in the country, and reaches a peak at festival times, most notably Khmer New Year. Even so, the threat is small, so it shouldn't stop you enjoying the nightlife. Taking a few simple precautions can reduce the risk further:

• Do not carry your passport or other valuable items; lock them in your hotel safe.
• Carry only a small amount of cash.
• Use a moto or taxi rather than walk.
• Use a trustworthy moto-driver, preferably someone recommended by your hotel or guesthouse.
• If you are robbed, do not resist and do not run.

There are plenty of civilian and military police hanging around, whose main function appears to be imposing arbitrary fines or tolls for motoring "offences". Of the two, the civilian police, who wear blue or khaki uniforms, are more helpful. Military police wear black-and-white armbands.

Landmines

The war has ended, but the killing continues. Years of guerrilla conflict have left Cambodia the most densely mined country in the world. The statistics are horrendous – up to eight million landmines in the country; 50,000 amputees; a further 2000 mine victims every year. The worst affected areas are the province of Battambang and the border regions adjacent to Thailand in the northwest, namely Banteay Meanchey, Pailin and Preah Vihear provinces.

Slow progress is being made by mine-clearance organizations, such as the British-based Mine Action Group (MAG) and The Halo Trust, but resources are extremely limited compared to the scale of the problem.

Although the risk is very real for those who work in the fields, the threat to tourists is minimal. The main tourist areas are clear of mines, and even in the heavily mined areas towns and roads are safe. The main danger occurs when striking off into fields or forests, so the simple solution is to stick to known safe paths. If you must cross a dubious area, try to use a local guide, or at least ask the locals "mian min dtay?" ("Are there mines here?"). Look out for the red mine-warning signs, and on no account touch anything suspicious-looking.

Medical care and emergencies

For serious medical emergencies consider flying to Bangkok, although clinics and hospitals in Phnom Penh are equipped to deal with most ailments (see "Listings" for addresses). Sihanoukville and Siem Reap have limited facilities, but generally medical facilities outside Phnom Penh are poor. If you are stuck in the provinces and require emergency evacuation to Phnom Penh, contact International SOS on 023/216911. We've listed general emergency telephone numbers, but whatever the emergency, it's probably best to contact the English-speaking operators, available 24 hours.

Street-corner pharmacies throughout Cambodia are well stocked with basic supplies and money rather than a prescription gives easy access to anything available, though beware of out-of-date medication. Standard shop hours (7am–8pm, or later) apply at most of these places, but some stay open in the evening. More reputable operations with English- and French-speaking pharmacists can be found in Phnom Penh, where a wider variety of specialized drugs are available. Some even offer 24-hour service.

Money and costs

Cambodia's unit of currency is the riel, abbreviated to "r". Notes come in denominations of 100, 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000 and 100,000, although the bigger notes are seldom seen, as dollars tend to be used for larger transactions. American dollars are accepted everywhere; you'll be expected to pay in dollars rather than riel at guesthouses, restaurants and for most entrance fees to tourist sites. In fact, it's possible to get by in Cambodia without actually changing any foreign currency into riel, but there are times when riel notes are useful – lower-priced items such as street food and motos are normally paid for in riel, and bargaining in riel for crafts at a market, for example, gives you more room for manoeuvre. Changing up to say $10 worth will give you a chunky pile of riel, enough to last you a few days. Thai baht, abbreviated to "B", are also widely used in the border areas, and on the main trade routes from Thailand.

It's best to change your currency into dollars before you enter Cambodia, although banks in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap will exchange most currencies. Traveller's cheques can be changed at most banks for a small commission, normally two percent. Credit-card cash advances are available in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Battambang, but don't rely on them as a source of cash as systems are unreliable. Branches of the Canadia Bank give commission-free cash advances on MasterCard. ATMs haven't yet arrived in Cambodia.

To exchange dollars into riel, don't bother with the banks – they issue riel at a low rate, if at all. Head instead for the nearest market, where moneychangers display bundles of riel in their glass cabinets. At the time of writing, a dollar in Phnom Penh's central market was worth 3930r.

On the whole, food and accommodation is slightly more expensive in Cambodia than in its neighbouring countries. However, it's possible to live quite cheaply: if you stay in the cheapest guesthouses, eat only at the markets and street stalls and travel in the back of pick-ups, you'll be able to scrape by on £7/$10 a day, not including entrance fees to museums and other sights. However, eating a few guesthouse or restaurant meals and staying in en-suite accommodation will quickly increase daily costs to around £10/$15. For decent air-con accommodation, three good meals a day and a bit of nightlife, reckon on spending around £20/$30. A two-tier pricing system is beginning to develop and tourists are being asked to pay a hefty premium for some transport and entrance fees, though unlike neighbouring Vietnam you're unlikely to be ripped off for local services with motos, pick-ups, accommodation and food charged at the Cambodian price.

The easiest way to get money wired to you in Cambodia is via the branches of the Acleda Bank, agents for Western Union in Cambodia, or via MoneyGram handled by Canadia Bank; both have branches in major towns. See the "Listings" sections of these towns for details.

Emergency phone numbers

Police 117

Fire 118

Ambulance 119

Police assistance (English, French and Italian spoken) 017/816601 or 018/811542
Police assistance for expats 023/724793, 023/366841 or 023/366842

Food and drink

Cambodian food is heavily influenced by China, with stir-fries featuring on most menus. Some dishes are similar to Thai cuisine, but with herbs being used for flavouring rather than spices. Chilli is usually served on the side rather than blended into the dish. Even curry dishes, such as the delicious coconut milk and fish amok, tend to be served very mild. Rice is the staple food for mealtimes, while noodles are more for breakfast – when they're served as a soup – and as a snack. Hygiene standards may not match what you're used to, but Cambodians are surprisingly fussy over food and produce is always fresh. At street stalls though, given the lack of refrigeration it's as well to make sure the food is piping hot. If you have a choice, always pick somewhere that's really busy.

Where to eat

The cheapest Khmer cuisine is to be found at street stalls and markets, which is where you'll find dishes more like the locals eat at home. There are usually one or two dishes on offer at each stall, perhaps pigs' organ soup, fried noodles or a tasty filled baguette. If you're ordering soup, you can pick and choose the ingredients to taste. These stalls are dirt cheap – you can certainly get a meal for less than 2000r – though the portions tend to be on the small side.

Khmer restaurants are the next step up, recognizable by their beer signs outside. In the evenings, the better ones fill up early on and most places close soon after 9pm. Buying a selection of dishes to share is the norm: each dish costs 5000–10,000r and there's also a small cover charge. In these restaurants, as in beer gardens, drinks are purchased from "beer girls" (see "Drinks").

Western restaurants are plentiful in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, though standards vary enormously. Most places cost more than eating at a Khmer restaurant, with meals at $3–5, although the more upmarket restaurants charge $5–10.

Many guesthouses also do meals – typically noodles, rice and pasta – for about the same price as Khmer restaurants. It's easy to make do with guesthouse food after a hard day's sightseeing, but for authentic Cambodian culinary colour, you'll need to be more adventurous.

Khmer food

A standard meal in Cambodia consists of rice, plus two or three other dishes, either a fish or meat dish, and a steaming bowl of soup. Flavours are dominated by fish sauce, herbs – especially lemongrass (particularly in soup) – coconut milk and tamarind.

If you only try one Khmer dish, it should be amok dt'ray, a delightful fish curry with a rich coconut-milk sauce baked in banana leaves – you'll stand the best chance of finding it in Siem Reap. Most fish served in Cambodia is freshwater, and close to the Tonle Sap it is particularly abundant. Fish turns up on every menu, in popular dishes such as dt'ray chorm hoy (steamed fish), dt'ray aing (grilled fish) and sumlar mjew groueng dt'ray (Cambodian fish soup with herbs).

For snacks, try noam enseum j'rook (sticky rice, soy beans and pork served in a bamboo tube) or noam enseum jake (sticky rice and banana). Baguettes, noam pang, are always a handy snack food, especially when travelling. Vendors have a selection of fillings, normally pork pâté, sardines, pickled vegetables and salad.

There are some surprisingly tasty desserts to be found at street stalls, markets and some restaurants, many of them made from rice and coconut milk. They're very cheap, so you could try a selection. Succulent fruits are widely available at the markets. Rambutan, papaya, pineapple, mangosteen and dragonfruit are all delicious, and bananas incredibly cheap (800r per hand). Durians grow in abundance in Kampot, and are, according to Cambodians, the world's finest; they're in season from late March.

Drinks

If you want to reduce the chance of stomach problems, don't drink the water and don't take ice out on the streets, although it's generally safe in Western bars and restaurants. Bottled, sealed water is available everywhere. Other thirst-quenchers are the standard international soft drinks brands, available in bottles or cans, and a few local variants. Freshly squeezed sugar-cane juice is another healthy roadside favourite, although the tastiest Khmer beverage has to be dteuk krolok, a sweet, milky fruit shake, to which locals add an egg for extra nutrition.

Coffee is often served iced and black, with heaps of sugar; if you have it white is comes with a slug of condensed milk already in the glass. Chinese-style tea is commonly drunk with meals, and is served free in most restaurants. You'll only find Western tea in tourist restaurants – ask for dteuk dtai Lipton.

The local brew is Angkor beer, a fairly good drop, owing in part to the use of Australian technology at the Sihanoukville brewery. International brands, such as Tiger, Fosters and Heineken, are also on offer at restaurants and beer gardens and are purchased from so-called beer girls. Each brand has its own beer girls, so if you want a particular brand you have to order from the corresponding beer girl. Once you've ordered, a tray of cans is brought to your table and a beer girl will keep coming back to open the cans and top up your glass.

Overland routes into Cambodia

Travelling overland into Cambodia is now possible from the neighbouring countries – Thailand, Vietnam and Laos. From Thailand there are two entry points: the border crossing at Aranyaprathet, east of Bangkok, to Poipet; and the coastal border at Ban Hat Lek, near Trat, to Cham Yeam, west of Koh Kong. From Vietnam two crossings are open to foreigners: northwest of Ho Chi Minh City at Moc Bai to Bavet, southeast of Phnom Penh; and at Chau Doc, northwest of Can Tho on the Bassac River. From Laos the only crossing open is in the far south on the Mekong island of Voen Kham, to the north of Stung Treng.

Information and maps

Cambodia is beginning to recognize the importance of tourism to its economy, and is establishing a network of basic tourist offices. These offices, however, are desperately starved of resources and generally don't have much information, so it's better to ask at local guesthouses.

The easiest map to use is the 1:1,100,000 Periplus Travel Map of Cambodia. It's a handy size and also has plans of Phnom Penh and Angkor. International Travel Maps also publishes a useful 1:800,000 map. If you're travelling around the region, you could try the 1:2,000,000 regional map of Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos published by UBD or Bartholomew. Bear in mind, however, that all these maps are based on dated surveys. The existence of a road is no guarantee as to condition; many of the older roads featured no longer exist, and new roads are not shown.

Entry requirements and visa extension

All foreign nationals, except Malaysians, need a visa to enter Cambodia. Tourist visas are valid for thirty days and cost $20. A business visa costs $25 and is valid initially for thirty days. Tourist visas are issued on arrival at Pochentong airport in Phnom Penh and at the airport at Siem Reap; one passport photo is required. It's also possible to obtain a visa on arrival at the Thai overland border crossings of Cham Yeam and at Poipet, but not as yet at the other overland crossings – Bavet and Chau Doc, the border crossings with Vietnam, or at Voen Kham, north of Stung Treng into Laos. For these border points, you'll need to obtain a visa beforehand. You can either organize this before you leave home or obtain one at a Cambodian embassy in one of the neighbouring countries. In Bangkok – you'll need a passport photo and the visa takes up to two working days to process; if you don't want the hassle of queuing at the embassy yourself, travel agencies on Thanon Khao San will organize the visa for you for an additional charge of $5. In Vietnam, you can get visas from the Cambodian Embassy in Hanoi or from the consulate in Ho Chi Minh City, but note that the latter charges $30 instead of the standard $20. In Laos the Cambodian Embassy is in Vientiane near That Khao, on Thadua Road.

Extending a tourist visa is a painless process in Phnom Penh, but impossible elsewhere in Cambodia, so if you're planning a long trip into the provinces think about whether you'll need an extension before you go. Extensions are issued at the Department of Immigration, Pochentong Road, opposite the airport in Phnom Penh (Mon–Fri 8–10.30am & 2.30–4.30pm); you'll need two passport photos. Next-day service costs $40 for a one-month extension or $75 for three months. Given the location of the offices it's easier to take advantage of the extension services offered by travel agents and guesthouses; they can do the running around for you and charge just a couple of dollars' commission. A tourist visa can only be extended once, for one month; you are charged $5 per day for overstaying your visa.

Airport departure tax

Cambodian airport tax is currently $20 for international departures, and $10 for domestic departures from Pochentong; from Siem Reap it's $10 and $4 respectively.